Part 1 of 2 - Home to Deal's Gap
A motorcycle ride. A long one...Hwy 129 - known worldwide as the Tail of the Dragon. Then the Cherohala Skyway west to Tellico Plains, and back home. It's the southern end of the Great Smoky Mountains.
photo above - Hwy 68, almost to 411. The first good look at the mountains.
If you want to just see the pictures from the trip, scroll on past the "what and why," and enjoy...
Here's the "what and why..."
Google maps says the full loop is 422 miles.
These are roads motorcycle and sports car people look for. A destination.
Tail of the Dragon google information... https://www.google.com/search?q=About+https://tailofthedragon.com/&tbm=ilp&ctx=atr&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjup6WAwfmOAxVmk4QIHf0BNi8Qv5AHegQIABAe
For a couple of years, I've daydreamed about this ride. Recently, I researched and mapped it several different ways.
The route I settled on is North to South. Mostly two lanes, with some four lane, and interstate at the end. Some good advice I got from my buddy, Mark Gass, "Ride the Dragon first, while you're fresh, then the Cherohala, and back home." Sound advice that made for a safer ride, and took any guesswork out of the planning.
Tuesday, August 5, a day off work. I left at 5AM, hoping to be back home about 3PM. I had Terri's blessing, but I didn't file a complete flight plan. I would update her along the way. Riding alone, I didn't want anyone worrying about me, or thinking I was crazy. We can sort that out later.
With a small duffle bag full of snacks, a coat and rain pants, I promised myself I'd take my time, and ride within my limits.
Should be three tanks of gas, and 8 to 9 hours, plus stops. Rain was in the forecast. The loop might be cut short.
I got fuel in Manchester. Then 55 to McMinnville, to 56 to 108 to 111 toward Dunlap.
6AM. The dark cloudy sky was getting brighter. At this higher elevation, I drove in fog and light rain. This is where Hwy 111 goes from four lanes to two.
In my mirrors, a white SUV was speeding up behind me, to pass before the road narrowed. I stayed right, and motioned them around. They stayed back there. I don't like to be pushed or tail gated. They stayed just off my back fender, and finally buzzed past. I'm not proud of this, but at 6:05 AM, as they went by, I released the only bird of the day in their direction. The SUV driver did what they thought was right. I did the same. No harm, no foul.
At that moment, I was reminded of good advice I got from another friend, Tim Solomon. I mentioned to him that I wanted to make this ride. "If somebody gets right behind you, let em go!" Like Mark, Tim spoke from experience riding the Tail of the Dragon. He was talking about the 11 miles and 318 curves. His advice was sound. I realized, I need to ride that way all day, every day! Not just in the curves. This freed me up and my attitude changed. Now smiling and nodding inside my helment, I said "Allrighty" out loud. Tim's, "Let em go!" echoed in my head. The rest of the day was more enjoyable.
I stopped to regroup, and put on rain gear. Frog Togg pants, and a Carhart coat. The hoodie and blue wind breaker went in the duffle bag. The better layers provided wind and rain protection. Note for next time...start out that way.
With my new attitude, and no pressure on the clock, the first picture stop was the overlook on 111 just past Dunlap. The clouds were low, and the valley was waking up.
Back on 111, its a short trip up and over Flat Top Mountain, to 127. Then North up the valley through Dayton to 68, over Watts Bar Dam. Then over I-75 and through Sweetwater.
Before I got to 411, the mountains were finally in sight. It was turning into a beautiful day. The first picture above was my first good look at the mountains. A quick stop on the side of the road to appreciate it. At 411, I turned North, then a few miles away is Vonore, and Hardee's.
Fuel and Breakfast stop. 9AM. 160 miles traveled. I got three gallons of gas at Rocky Top Market, then rode next door to Hardee's. I checked in with Terri at work via text message. The weather forecast was good. At this point, I filed a complete flight plan. She said, "You're a long way from home, be careful." I said, "I'm a tank of gas away. I will."
The Hardee's staff was friendly, and I was ready for a break. My biscuit and gravy, and coke was delicious. The portions were big, and it messed up my lunch plan. After about fifteen minutes, back on 411 to Hwy 72, just past the bridge.
Hwy 72 and 129 run beside the Little Tennessee River. The calm water, and the reflection of trees and mountains made for a beautiful ride. As I got closer to the famous 11 mile stretch, the sun popped out, and it got warm. I pulled over and got out of the frog toggs, and heavy coat. Back into the wind breaker.
I also took my phone off the holder, so I wouldn't take a chance of losing it. A while back, Jimmy Gaddis gave me an elastic strap made to keep a phone in place. It worked great, and was a key piece of equipment for the day. No need to push my luck.
I didn't need a phone or GPS here. During the eleven mile stretch, I better concentrate on each curve and change in elevation. Also, try to be aware of traffic coming towards me and behind me. I was about to have my hands full. I was excited and confident. Any extra information would be distracting.
I passed Tabcat Creek boat ramp, and 129 goes into the woods and shadows and up hill. The next 11 miles are curves, elevation changes, and adrenaline. This is the Tail of the Dragon.
I was cautious, but not timid. Being timid can get you hurt. I accellerated from the sweet spot of each curve toward the next one. The torque of the motor and drive shaft slowed me down as I got out of the gas. Sometimes I downshifted as I tried to get in the right part of the road for the next one. It's important to keep the rpms steady in a curve. The less I used my brakes the smoother the ride.
It was a good strategy. I only held one biker up with my speed. A old guy on a big upright BMW. I motioned him to come on around, and he passed me easily. "Let em go!" His bike motor made a high whirring sound as he downshifted, accellerated, and dissapeared into the next curve. Made me appreciate my louder more redneck exhaust. Luckily, no sports cars got behind me at all.
Oncoming traffic... Lots of little cars with uncapped headers and loud mufflers. They popped from back pressure when they let off the gas, Subaru WRXs and Hondas. Some had negative camber that made the tires lean out at the bottom, and in at the top. They looked like this...
Most of the cars used all their lane and part of mine. They dove into the curves and accellerated away. As long as you don't meet in the middle, it's a rush, and amazing to share the road with them. It's tempting to get caught up in the moment and outdrive your ability and equipment.
Photographers set up and take pictures then post them online for sale. Here is one...
My pegs scraped on the road. It's a little unnerving. I understand Physics enough to know momentum and center of gravity are not to be messed with. Mike, a guy here at work that rides a Harley, told me one time, "When you're scrapin, that's when you know your doin it right!"
The 11 miles went by quickly, and I made it to Deals Gap. The end of the Tail of the Dragon. For northbound riders from North Carolina, Deal's Gap is their starting point.
I was thankful and relieved to be there safely, with no problems.
There is a shrine of sorts, called the tree of shame. Anything left from wrecks is retrieved and hung from this tree. It's an eerie reminder this can be a dangerous place. I couldn't look too much at the helments and clothing. No one plans to have their gear in that tree.
Deals Gap was almost halfway through the ride.